![]() ![]() The fact that the models come pre-assembled is another advantage over some wargames, as there is no glue or tools you need to buy to play the game. As long as it doesn’t cause arguments and you can tell where the front is, anything can be used. AGOAC comes with punch out cardboard tokens/stands that can be used to represent mechs before you buy models for them. The game is mostly a board game, and all mechs are treated as being of equal size for line of sight, in addition to all ranges and movement being measured from the hex, not the model. The plastic models are nice, but not strictly required, as anything that has a defined front can be used to represent a mech. The map sheets that come with the game are very good, and CGL sells packs containing more maps for you to play on if you get bored of the ones contained in the starter boxes. I’d suggest also picking up some dry erase markers and page protectors, which will make tracking heat much easier as well as letting you re-use the same sheet for your next game. As you get more into the game picking up some custom movement dice from Etsy is well worth it, as they make knowing the modifiers effortless. While you can keep this all in your head or make notes on the record sheets, page 13 of the Battlemech Manual describes using a set of dice to track it. Part of your to-hit calculations involve knowing whether your mech walked, ran, or jumped, and knowing how many hexes your target moved. I’d highly recommend having an additional few sets of dice, preferably in red/black/white. They’re available with a couple variants for every mech currently released in plastic. ![]() Rather than marking directly on the record sheets included with the game, download the free PDF from the battletech web site and print them off. Everything listed above (except the table, no matter how much I want Catalyst to sell a tiny tactical table) is contained within AGOAC. To play a game, the bare essentials are 2 six sided dice, the rulebook (Either the AGOAC rulebook, the Battlemech Manual, or Total Warfare (pick up BMM before Total Warfare unless you badly want to use vehicles/infantry)), a hex map sheet, record sheets you can mark/edit, either digital or physical, a table large enough to hold the map sheet/ map sheets you are using, and some sort of token to represent the mechs being used. WHAT YOU NEED TO PLAY A GAME OF BATTLETECH All of this basic information now being out of the way, lets go over the details. Take it slow and expand up games at a speed you feel comfortable with. I know it is tempting to jump right in to the whole experience of moving around a team of mechs, but Battletech is more difficult to learn than a lot of wargames, and a lot of new players try to jump in at the biggest game size and get very overwhelmed by trying to keep track of it all. This next bit is very important, and if you take nothing else away from this article, let it be this. AGOAC is one of the best new player boxes ever made for any wargame and we have been recommending it for a reason. AGOAC is the natural next step after the Beginner Box, as it keeps the rules fairly simple while giving you the mechs to scale up your games. The current one, containing a Vindicator and a Griffin, is also the only place to get either of those mechs, so even if you already have AGOAC, its well worth grabbing. ![]() The Beginner Box is a perfect launching off point, as it is built around 1v1 games, as it comes with 2 mechs. To start out with, if you are new to the game and considering getting into it, I highly recommend picking up the Beginner Box and A Game of Armored Combat, in that order. ![]() This week we will talk about actually playing your first few games of the big cool robot game, and what a “Standard” game of Battletech even is. We have covered the starter boxes, currently available units, books, and other products, as well as a brief primer on the factions and timeline. ![]()
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